12-Day Northern Japan Itinerary
Northern Japan is a region filled with history, nature, and incredible food, Yet, it often gets overlooked by travelers who stick to the Golden Route. If you’ve ever wanted to explore Japan beyond Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, this 12-day itinerary through Tohoku and beyond is for you.
Even though this itinerary spans 12 days, it can easily be extended or shortened to fit your schedule. Still, I recommend not making it too much shorter if you want to experience the highlights of each destination. Tohoku and the neighboring prefectures have so many things to see, taste, and enjoy. Don’t make the mistake of trying to pack everything into one trip.
For convenience, this route begins and ends in Tokyo which makes it easy for both domestic and international travelers. However, you can adjust the start or endpoint depending on your travel plans.
While the Golden Route is popular for good reason, I believe there is so much more to experience while traveling Japan if you just go a little farther. Venturing north opens the door to a completely different side of Japan.
Days 1 and 2: Nikko
Start your travel by going from Tokyo to Nikko, a small mountain town known for its shrines and scenery. Though not actually part of Tohoku, it’s the perfect stop before heading north.
Visit Toshogu Shrine, Lake Chuzenji, and the Kanmangafuchi Abyss to enjoy both history and nature. Take time to walk around an enjoy the beautiful outdoor spaces. Stay overnight in Nikko to enjoy the atmosphere and take some early morning walks around town before everything opens. Most restaurants close early, so plan dinner in advance.
If you are looking for more urban adventures, travel to Utsunomiya and check out some of the local gyoza. It’s one of the gyoza capitals of Japan.
Day 3: Nikko → Aizuwakamatsu → Sendai
From Nikko, make your way to Aizuwakamatsu which is known for its samurai history. On the way, stop for a visit at Ouchi Juku, an old folk village in Fukushima. The town allows you to see what life was like long ago. Be sure to climb the hill for the best viewpoint. Try some of the local negi soba for lunch.
Once in Aizuwakamatsu, visit Tsuruga Castle, once the final stronghold of the Tokugawa Shogunate, and stop by the Aizu Bukeyashiki Samurai Residences.
If you love sake, you shouldn’t miss the Suehiro Sake Brewery. You can enjoy a brewery tour and tasting. One of the highlights was seeing the aging room. They also house an interesting selection of cameras on display as part of a permanent exhibition. If you are into photography, you will probably enjoy it.
Before leaving town, paint your own Akabeko, a red cow figurine that is symbolic in Aizu’s culture. I recommend Akabeko Land. This shop had a souvenir store downstairs and a workshop upstairs. Reservations are recommended if you are visiting with a group. Not only is making it so much fun, but you can have a one-of-a-kind souvenir to take home.
Many people say to not miss sauce katsu-don, a breaded pork cutlet served over rice with tangy sauce, but I would say try other regional dishes. Afterward, head to Sendai for the night.
Days 4 and 5: Sendai
Sendai, the largest city in Tohoku, is the perfect mix of a big city and local charm. It has numerous shopping areas and restaurants but also has some local cultural experiences. The townspeople are so welcoming and friendly, too.
Visit Zuihoden Mausoleum and Kansenden Temple, explore the Sendai Castle ruins, or take a half-day trip to Matsushima Bay which is famous for its pine-covered islands.
If you are interested in how the area was impacted by the 2011 Great Tohoku Earthquake, go to Arahama Elementary School. This school was hit by the tsunami and while the building and all the people inside survived, the school suffered great damage. It has now been turned into a museum. While eerie and a bit difficult to experience, it’s an important reminder of the resilience of humanity and power of nature.
For sake lovers, head to Sasaki Sake Brewery that’s just south of the elementary school. This brewery was destroyed by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. Through the support of people, it has been rebuilt and produces some outstanding varieties of sake. Most are only available at their shop or online. Nearby, there is a riverwalk and many shops and restaurants to enjoy too.
In the evening, try gyutan (grilled beef tongue) which is Sendai’s local dish. Walking around the city offers you many food and drink choices. For craft beer fans, Black Tide Brewing or Bar Beron are great choices.
If you visit in August, don’t miss the Tanabata Festive. Colorful decorations fill the shopping arcade and city streets in an almost magical way.
Day 6: Sendai → Morioka
Continue north to Morioka in Iwate Prefecture. If time allows, stop at one of the nearby national parks. They are scenic, peaceful, and full of wildlife.
Morioka is an underrated gem with a relaxed vibe and phenomenal food. Explore the Morioka Castle ruins park, the Bank of Iwate’s red brick building, and Hoon-ji, a temple known for its Rakan statues.
While many travelers attempt the wanko soba challenge (small bowls of soba served endlessly), I suggest trying one of the local izakaya instead. Some of the best seafood I have had in Japan was in Morioka.
After dinner, check out one of the small bars, walk the river walk, or go to Aeron Standard for craft beer. The craft beer bar has an international atmosphere, great American-style food, and surprisingly affordable prices. Wander around the city to fully enjoy all the nightlife.
Day 7: Morioka → Aomori
Keep traveling north to Aomori. If you are a garlic lover, make a detour to Takko, the garlic capital of Japan. However, there isn’t much to experience other than the garlic lunch set. In Aomori, visit the Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse to experience the energy of the area’s most famous festival year-round. The Nebuta Festival is held annually in August.
Stop by the Aomori Fish Market to build your own kaisendon (seafood rice bowl) with fresh, local ingredients. If you are looking for souvenirs, head to the popular A Factory near the station. They have many products from all over Aomori, especially apple-themed goods.
End your day with a walk along Aomori Bay before choosing a local izakaya for dinner.
Day 8 – Day Trip to Hirosaki and Takayama Inari
Take a short train ride or drive to Hirosaki. Its known for its castle and cherry blossoms in spring. Visit Hirosaki Castle and Park, walk through the samurai district, and check out the preserved Western-style buildings left from the Meiji era. Hirosaki Castle is one of the 12 remaining Japanese castles. Most castles were destroyed by natural disaster, during the Meiji Era as a way to further dismantle feudal history, or in World War II. While it is small, the park around the castle is beautiful.
Try some of the local restaurants and cafes for a treat. If you have a car, travel to Takayama Inari to see absolutely stunning views of the sea of Torii gates. Make sure you go to the top of the hill for a beautiful view of the ocean.
On your way to Takayama Inari, stop by Tsuru no Maihashi if you have time. It’s the longest wooden bridge of its kind in Japan. Return to Aomori for the night.
Day 9 – Aomori to Akita
Travel along one of the scenic routes to Akita. There are breathtaking views of the Sea of Japan along the way. Once in Akita, explore Senshu Park which was built on the site of Akita Castle, or stop by the Akita Museum of Art. If you are interested in history, visit the Akita City Folk Arts Center. You can not only learn about the local festivals but also local history.
If you stop at any rest areas or take local roads, be on the look out for Babahera ice cream carts. These ice creams are scooped by older women using a hera, or special spatula, and formed into flowers. The flavor is quite nostalgic too.
Try an izakaya to really enjoy the flavors of the area. One of my best memories of the trip was hanging out at a small izakaya and meeting local people.
Day 10 – Akita to Yamagata
Yamagata is the perfect place to relax after traveling around Tohoku. Yamagata City and Zao Onsen both have excellent places to wind down. If you are looking for more of a nightlife or multiple restaurants visit Yamagata City. Choose Zao Onsen if you want to relax in an onsen, enjoy nature, and eat delicious foods. If you want to learn more about Yamagata, check out this instagram page about Zao Onsen curated by Nikki who lives in the town.
Day 11 – Yamagata to Niigata
While Niigata isn’t part of Tohoku, it still offers similar experiences and is worth visiting as part of your trip around Japan. Niigata is probably most known for its ski resorts and sake. I recommend visiting the fish market in downtown to have some incredibly fresh seafood. Plus, with the various restaurants and stalls, there is bound to be something for everyone.
If you are a craft beer lover, don’t skip 2LF brewpub. The beers are phenomenal, and the atmosphere is very stylish. There are a few other bars around the area to check out as well. Ponchan is a great option for sake lovers. It’s located in Niigata station and has many sake vending machines so that you can try a few local ones.
Venture out of the city to tour some sake breweries or visit the Kyowa museum. They have a massive collection of vintage cars and Showa era items.
Day 12 – Return to Tokyo
When you wake up, visit the local fish market in Niigata for breakfast. Grab a few bottles of sake for souvenirs and catch the train. Wrap up your northern Japan journey by returning to Tokyo Spend the afternoon picking up souvenirs or enjoying one last meal before heading home. Enjoy shopping and exploring Tokyo for the day. Don’t forget to have one last meal or drink to end you trip.
Final Thoughts
This 12-day itinerary is a balance of history, nature, and delicious food. Northern Japan moves at a slower pace than Tokyo or Kyoto and provides more chances to experience local culture. If you can even add a couple of these places to your itinerary, I highly recommend it. The landscape is stunning and many areas are not very crowded at all.
Where do you want to visit in or near northern Japan?
